As we are currently living in Sotogrande Spain - near Gibraltar, a day trip to Tangier is almost compulsory. The day started with an early rise (very rude for a Saturday) to catch the 9am fast ferry from Tarifa Spain (about 1 hour drive around the coast) -however we needed to get to the Port about 1 hour ahead of time to make sure we were able to snatch a park in the port area (not very big and is usually full by just after 8am). Ferry ride took approx 1 hour and we arrived to meet Mr Aziz just after 8am (they are 2 hours behind). Aziz is used by many of the expats and came highly recommended. After collecting the rest of the group we headed off to the coastal areas. Tangers has 320 days of sunshine each year. In other words IT NEVER RAINS........except when we are there. It started raining about 30 minutes into our tour and did not stop until we arrived back on Spanish soil - so rather than complain throughout this posting just read that into the following.......There was the usual camel rides and photo opportunity with the baby donkey (cute ....but). The drive took us through what can only be called "snob hill" and past various royal residences (very impressive), international rulers holiday homes (equally impressive) and sheiks residences (ditto). Unfortunately we were unable to see a couple of items during the trip due to an international selection committee who were viewing Morocco's bid for the 2012 World Expo. Obviously places which were involved in the bid presentation were "out of bounds" for the day including The Cave which we will return and see sometime soon.
Once the market place opened, we were taken to see the wet market. Unlike those we had seen in Malaysia, this was more western style - but very much larger, and noisier. The chickens were already slaughtered, the fish were fresh that day, and the vegetables looked fantastic. A great mix of commerce, conversation and community. Smells were fantastic with fresh herbs, dried herbs, various olive and garlic mixtures combining with fresh fish, meat and fruit aromas. From there we wandered throughout the old city. Narrow paths, archways, stone steps, small local shops with hawkers peddling a variety of goods including lovely cedar boxes, t shirts, fake watches and just about anything else you can think of. The architecture was fascinating.........small hand cut tiles making beautiful Mosaic patterns in the typical Moorish geometric patterns. Stone fretwork decorating the sides of buildings and providing artistic entrances in many of the door ways. Community ovens every few minutes where the local housewives bring their bread in the morning and their biscuits in the afternoon to be baked in large pizza type wood fired ovens. The smell was fantastic.
Then we had to pay our dues by going to the local tourist targeted shop (every city has them and every tour goes to them). Selling carpets, silver teapots, ceramics, leather goods etc etc etc. Morocco is known for its Berber hand made carpets. And no...... we did not buy one. But we had a serious look. The polite hard sell was on...wrapped in delicious mint tea and very friendly Arab hospitality...but we were unable to find exactly what we wanted - so once again we will come back.
Lunch was an interesting affair. Food was great, building was colourful - full of intricate tile designs, company was good. Not bad for a day tour. Then it was back to see the other side of the old city wall and the various sights from the highest point of the ancient town.
Tangier has been owned, colonised, invaded and ruled by just about everybody. The city has a French centre, a British area, a Portuguese element, Spanish quarter, Jewish area and obviously an Arab feel. Each succeeding power bought its own architecture and culture to the city. It is truly a mixture of races, and influences. Aziz took great pains to tell us that the place was truly international and laissez faire. Certainly we were able to see synagogues in one block with a mosque facing it on the next corner. It seemed to be a very tolerant society with the women dressed in anything from full western attire to the full Islamic requirement to cover faces, hair, arms and legs. We were informed that women were able to chose their adherence to religious dress for themselves.
Another stamp in the passbook (running out of pages very quickly). We will return in a few weeks and try to see other parts of the city and some of the coastal scenes without the rain. As with all tours one day just is not enough to do this city justice
