Sunday, June 24, 2007

CADIZ - June 25th 2007

Whilst Ian makes work trips down towards Cadiz on a weekly basis, our only tourist visit to the actual city of Cadiz coincided with a Fiesta day and we were unable to navigate our way around to the old city section. So today's tourist aim was to find the old walled section of the city and go for a wander to see what the place was like. We also wanted to look in on the stork nest we had filmed in early March to see what family additions had taken place during the last 3 months.

There are several sections of highways in our area of Spain which play host to families of storks during the spring and summer months. For those of you who have been born and bought up in Europe this may seem rather ho hum.......for us Ozzies, storks are something that you read about in nursery rhymes and we find them fascinating.

Their ability to build nests perched on high platforms on the edge of major freeways is great and watching them soar and fly so gracefully can be very time consuming (and also potentially dangerous as there are very few stop points along the road systems in Spain - so you tend to look out for them whilst driving - not so good). Anyhow, the nest we pictured being constructed in March (above)now has 3 members living in it (right).
The old centre of Cadiz is situated at the far end of the island - straight down the main street until it basically hits the far coast. In most places the city is bordered by a sea wall, so the beaches are either coves or run along the ocean side where the new town is located. Being a Sunday (and the start of Summer.....and hot), there seemed to be a local exodus from most buildings to the beach areas.
The walk along the ancient sea wall included a visit to the Castle of Santa Catalina. According to the tourist blurbs the original castle was built between 1598 and 1621. Originally erected to protect the city it was converted to a military prison for those of "higher condition" in 1769. The castle includes a chapel, barracks and warehouses which are used for art displays and exhibitions.

Leaving the coastline and moving through the old centre we were able to find some of the beautiful squares which seem to be typical for the old town centres in Spain. The buildings, churches and cathedrals which tend to border these squares are often impressive and the squares themselves vary from lovely gardens, to paved areas filled with tapas bars and restaurants, to road intersections and parking lots. Cadiz had some beauties. Stopping at one of the little bars and having a typical Spanish lunch under the umbrella is something that should not be missed. The relaxed middle of the day meal where it is expected that family and friends will take their time, gossip, drink and watch the world pass - usually in a little street with vine covered walls, bright umbrellas and plenty of shade is something that the younger western countries have missed out on.........it seems a very civilized way of living.


Cadiz has been able to maintain many of the old formal gardens throughout the old town. Many are small but are to be found every couple of blocks and in the heat of summer, the sound of the fountains, and the shade of the huge old trees provided another relaxing and cooling area to wander through and escape the afternoon sun. Whilst Cadiz does not have the stunning geographical scenery of Rhonda, and its historic castle was not quite as impressive as those in Malaga, it is a lovely city with a street scape which matches those we have seen elsewhere in Spain. Wandering through the narrow streets where stunning doorways allowed us to sometimes peek into houses which opened up to internal courtyards made for a enjoyable day. Cadiz was worth the visit.

Monday, June 11, 2007

Ronda - June 10th 2007

We had attempted this trip on Easter Sunday and although we actually arrived at our planned destination that time, we were unable to find a park and simply drove straight through and out the other side. So.....time for the second attempt. Success.


Ronda is about an hour to hour and half drive from Sotogrande, through wonderful hills and magnificent scenery. The drive is windy and sometimes steep but worth taking if you have the time. On a clear day the view from several of the lookouts can take in not only the distant Spanish hills and Gibraltar but can include the distant African mountain ranges. At this time of the year, the hills are covered in red poppies, yellow wildflowers and the various greens from the dirty green of the olive trees to the glossy sheens of orange tree leaves. In places it is truly majestic.

Ronda is a city which combines the heritage of Roman, Muslim and Christian conquests. The architecture is wonderful and in some cases the feats of engineering undertaken so many years ago are awesome.

The city square in the old town was built to combine the main functions of religion, justice and defense. The square is dominated by the Church of our Lady of the Incarnation with the City Hall providing an impressive boundary to the gardens which make up the centre section of the square. We were lucky enough to catch a parade of about 40 young people dressed for their first communion. Accompanied with a brass band, the various parish priests, nuns, parents and the rest of the parish it was an impressive pageant which went from the city square, along the main road and across the spectacular "New Bridge".

The Bridge of Ronda is spectacular. According to the ever reliable guide book it was built between 1751 and 1793 and is 98 mts high and made up of 3 arches. The central arch is 90 mts high. It is worth the walk to view the bridge from all vantage points - not just walk along the main street. We followed the track down to the Arab baths and crossed over the divide by the Bridge of San Miguel. The walk back along the edge, looking back across the river towards the House of the Moorish Kings was awesome. The view of houses perched and hanging off the edge of the almost sheer drop of 70 odd metres was breathtaking and the scene back towards the "New Bridge" was better than any available closer to the main street.


Once back at the main street, we were able to look back along the route we had taken and the landscape opened up to probably the best view of the day. The very deep, very narrow chasm which cut its way through the city, with houses perched on top overlooking the wonderful rural view which stretched away to the mountain ranges in the distance. Far below the river wound its way slowly through the rocks and pools which made up the base of the cutting. Generations of Rondarians had used the plazas and balconies which just seemed to be suspended over the gap for entertaining. We were able to watch one lucky couple have their wedding photos taken from the gardens of the House of the Moorish Kings. I imagine the background of their photos would have been world class.

It was a great day and the town was really worth the trip - highly recommended. Favorite spot for Sharyn was the House of the Moorish Kings. It now looks derelict - but that was actually part of the appeal - and its situation was 2nd to none.