Monday, December 17, 2007
Ubrique - December 8 2007
We set off early on Saturday morning to visit Ubrique.....our previous visit to this lovely village was unplanned and our arrival at 4(ish) on a Saturday afternoon had shown a very quiet little town which was closed down for the weekend. As we had been told about the wonderful leather produced here, we wanted to visit when the shops would be open. Once again, the trip through this area of Spain was beautiful, but the narrow, steep and very windy road took serious concentration on the part of the driver. We finally arrived about 2 hours after leaving home - but in plenty of time for some serious shopping. Ubrique, unlike many of the other white villages we had viewed, was actually set down in a long narrow valley, rather than sitting high, often on the side of a very steep cliff.
Whilst its situation was different, the design of the town was based on the traditional town square and the main street. We arrived at about 11.30am - early for the Spanish timetable - so the main street seemed pretty empty with most of the little cafes closed. The walk along the main street ended at a "T" junction where we found the shops and boutiques the town is famous for. Ian, as those that know him will agree, is part of that male group who do not like shopping.......and "Puts Up With It" when all excuses have totally failed (about once a year). By the end of approx one hour looking through leather shops which sold everything from the usual wallets, purses, bags and coats to leather umbrellas, shoes, card packs, ashtrays etc etc etc, Ian had converted into a major shopper (at least for that one day)
His aim was to buy a belt. He succeeded in buying 1 belt, 1 wallet, 1 coat.....and a few bits and pieces for me. Not bad for an avowed nonshopper. This is definitely one place we will have to take Dad and Mum to when they visit later in the year.
Walking back down main street was like we were in a different town. The traditional Spanish lunch hour had arrived and as is the norm in most Spanish towns, the families were out having their social weekend lunch time. The place was packed.
The empty mail was now filled with cafe tables and chairs, kids, parents and grandparents. Only trouble was, we were unable to find an empty table....so time to head out of town.
The trip home via a different route took us past another beautiful white village - this time straddling a cliff top - stretched out over quite a distance. Whilst we were looking over at it the sun rays came through the clouds to light the cliff top off and spectacularly show of this scene.
A wonderful day with beautiful scenery. And just think I get to do it all again in a couple of weeks when I go back to pick up the coat Ian ordered for me.
Thursday, November 29, 2007
Week trip - Netherlands and Italy November 19th 2007
Day 1 of the trip was spent in Amsterdam. This beautiful city has so much to see.....obviously a day just is not enough. Accompanied by friend Beth we decided to fit in viewing the Anne Frank's House museum, Rijksmuseum and the Van Gogh Museum.
Anne Frank's house is right in the middle of Amsterdam and was set up to display how the family hid during WWII. Walking through the building it was amazing that they were discovered as late as they were. The museum uses the words of the diary to explain the house and the circumstances the family were in.
Catching a tram across to the Rijksmuseum, we spent a couple of hours viewing old masterpieces, wonderful dolls houses and fabulous delftware. The delftware showed the heavy influence of the imports from the Dutch East India Company with its Asian influence affecting the type of designs and items produced. The old masterpieces clearly displayed the influence these Dutch masters had on the art world with their focus on light, reflection and depth. We followed with a trip through the Van Gogh Museum where impressionism was the focus. Beth's favorite piece was one of Van Gough's sunflower scenes which we actually found out was from a series designed to decorate a room in Van Gogh's house. That evening we again went into the centre of the city for a meal at a Thai restaurant just down from the red light district which anyone familiar with Amsterdam knows is one of the city's famed features.
Next day we were off to Padova (Padua) in Italy. This lovely walled city is situated along the Bachiglione River, between Verona and Venice. Much quieter than Venice and Milan it was a delightful place to stay for a couple of days with its historic Basilica di Sant'Antonio and beautiful old town centre. The shopping area was full of the Italian designer boutiques which was good for window shopping and adding to the Christmas "wish list" and finding a tourist agent which could sell me a train ticket to Milan for the following day.
Venturing by train to Milan was an interesting experience in itself. Having NO Italian language skills determining the correct station, platform and train was a bit hit and miss. However, thanks to the assistance of a nice couple who spoke as much English as I spoke Italian, I found my way into the correct seat, carriage and train. Two hours I arrived in Milan to catch up with friend Kathy who had settled in Milan three months earlier and provided company and guidance for the day. A short trip from the main central station and we arrived at the Duomo Cathedral. This spectacular building is awe-inspiring. The inside was covered with huge old master paintings and the stain glass windows were great - even with zero sun on a dismal winter day. From the cathedral square we were able to enter the "original Galleria". Again impressive architecture with glass archways and domes and a great place to warm up with a Caffe Latte (proper Italian style)
The entire area around the Cathedral was filled with architecturally interesting buildings. Walking along and finding ancient squares where buildings seemed to have been built from a series of different eras. This is definitely one area we will need to revisit and spend some serious time with a top guide book which will explain the buildings, their history and the cultural component of their existence. From here a quick visit to Kathy's place and another wonderful coffee and it was time to return to Padova for the evening.
Next day was another train trip - this time to Venice where it was COLD. My previous visit to Venice was disappointing. It was the middle of summer, the place was filled with people and we were on a bus tour which, in hindsight, was not the best way to see the city. This time, even though cold, I now saw why people love this water city. Taking a taxi down the main canal to St Marc's square, the water (much higher than last time) was lapping on the bottom steps of many of the centuries old palaces and museums. As I had seen St Marc's square previously I spent a couple of hours wondering around the narrow alleyways along the edge of the canal before catching another water taxi to the airport. Meeting up with Ian and the rest of the business guys we caught the plane back to Spain via about 40 minutes on the ground in Paris. Yes, we did make the connecting flight (just) and believe it or not - so did the luggage. My thoughts from this trip - we certainly need to return and spend some serious sightseeing time in all the cities visited during this week - just need to find the time.
Friday, November 16, 2007
Morocco November 10 2007
Saturday morning was an early start as we were on our way to Morocco again. Joining friend Chris and his sister Heidi, we were making the trip to pick up some spices and local handicraft for Christmas, as well as providing Heidi with the opportunity of doing some sightseeing whilst she was visiting. The ferry left Tarifa and headed for Tangiers at about 9am Spanish time.
The day started with some sight seeing along the coast including Hercules Cave. Local legend has it that Tangiers as developed by Hercules, and the cave opening looks a little like the map of Africa. The cave has been used for centuries including as a quarry which provided the stone the locals used to produce grinding wheels. The picture of Ian in the cave shows the ridges left in the cave walls by stone cutters in past centuries.
After completing the coastal views it was back to the old city. The market reminds me a little of the markets in Asia. Fresh fish, meat, vegetables and fruits, olives of all varieties and mixes - all wrapped up with the wonderful smell of the fresh spices and herbs. The stall holders go to a lot of trouble to ensure that all produce is displayed to advantage (it must take hours to set up some of the vegetable stalls). The mix of customers in western, Islamic, and the colorful Bedouin dress all yell and barter in a mixture of french, Arabic, English and various other dialects resulting in a colorful, noisy atmosphere.
After purchasing the various curries, paprikas, cumin, Cinnamon and nutmegs we were off to one of the many handicraft shops. These amazing places a crammed full of local bowls, serving tagines, urns wooden boxes and the inevitable rugs. You do need to barter, which is a bit difficult without some idea of the "fair" price. Our efforts of the day started with a price of 175 Euros with a final settled price of 50 Euros (less that 1/3 of the original asking). For that we were able to get a lovely little urn covered with silver filigree work, a serving tangine and two medium sized serving bowls.
Still in the old town, we then ventured through to the weavers and tailors area. The weaving is taken on by men, who use various natural threads to develop a variety of cloths - from heavy duty woollen and linens to the fine and colorful silk weaves used for expensive interior soft furnishings.
It was fascinating to see the guys at work - though I would not swap jobs with them on a hot day. Often there were two to three people to a loom with another man sitting on a bicycle wheel contraption spinning the finer threads into the ply required for the item being developed.
Once again Morocco provided us with an interesting day. Next trip we will try to take an extra day or so and see a little more of the place.
Malaga - Nov 3 2007
Malaga is one of those places people fly into, see the airport, and then move on to where-ever they have booked down the coast. Unfortunately it is not viewed as a place to visit by many of the expats coming into (and out of) the south of Spain. Its a pity as the city has much to offer, as we found out with a couple of KL friends (Dave and Monica), who have now returned to the UK and found time to spend a few days with us.
Starting at the Alcazabar (or Kings Palace), we were able to roam through this Moorish palace and its beautiful interior gardens, see the small museum dedicated to the Roman and Moorish bowls and urns found during various city excavations and generally get some wonderful views across the city.
A short walk from the high exit finds the ruins of a Roman ampitheatre. Whilst work is underway to excavate additional areas including more of the stage area, an impressive amount of restoration work has been carried out - it is almost unbelievable that something this old is still standing. As we walked down the road we were able to look back up towards the palace with the Roman ruins in the foreground - amazing history from different periods side by side. Coming from such a young country, Australians consider anything over 100 years to be old.....Europe's ruins dating from earlier than the 11th century are impressive.
A drive up to the top of the hill bought us to the Castillo de Gibralfaro. Originally a palace, it was rebuilt as a fortress during the Moorish period in the 14th century.
It is possible to walk the entire way around its walls - again with terrific views of Malaga as it is built overlooking the old town. Inside the museum displayed elements of Spanish military history, plus a model of the old town and the various connections between the palace and the fortress. Whilst we did not have time on this trip, previous visits to Malaga have included a walk through its old town - much of which is now up-market cafes and shopping areas. A very pretty place with some great tapas bars (particularly off the main streets).
Monday, November 12, 2007
Casares - October 25 2007
Brother Mark who lives in Glasgow arranged to visit for a few days. This a rare treat as Mark's job takes him all over the world and finding a couple of days to "just veg" is difficult and requires organisation well ahead of time. As his previous visits to Spain had been work orientated, and were pretty much based around Seville, we decided to keep our touring close to home. So....a trip to a pretty little white village close to Sotogrande was on the cards.
The drive from the main freeway up to the village goes past some lovely rural, mountain areas, where the Spanish hills seem to go forever.
With plenty of photo-ops on the way, we made our way up the high side of the village. By coming in this way, Casares suddenly appears as we turn the final corner into the main village street.
The white villages of Spain are beautiful and Casares is generally thought to be among the better. The ruins of an Arab medieval fortress and the Iglesia de la EncarnaciĆ³n Church overlook the white legoblock style houses below. In the distance is Gibraltar and the shores of Africa. The area between the village and the coast is the soaring grounds for peregrine falcons and kestrels.
After a wine at the little restaurant overlooking the village we made our way through to Maybella for a tapas lunch. The day was completed with a look around Sotogrande including the Valdarama area with a stop over for a coffee and views at the Almenara golf course. A really pleasant way to round up the day.
Monday, October 15, 2007
Back to Oz -
The big event for this year was the wedding of our son Anthony to his lovely partner Jenny. This occasion occurred on the 22nd September on a wonderful spring day in Melbourne Australia. I suppose we got the easy end of the day. Being the grooms parents meant a fairly relaxed day, with our responsibilities confined to making sure the suits were ready, shirts ironed, shoes cleaned and the guys fed before the big event. As we were overseas our pre-wedding jobs were also light on as Jenny and Anthony with the help of Jen's parents had everything planned beautifully.
It was a great day with family and friends from England, Scotland, South Australia and of course Victoria (and Spain obviously) all joining the bride and groom celebrate their day. Whilst Nana and Pa Selway were able to make the day, unfortunately Gran and Pa Berki missed the event with Pa having major surgery a few days earlier. However, our trip back did provide us with the opportunity to catch up with them and help out a bit with hospital visits and making sure Gran had everything she needed whilst watching over Pa. Daughter Lauren was a great help taking on a house full of visitors, acting as usher and reader at the wedding and generally keeping everything sane for the month we were back in Australia.
The reception was held at the Park Hyatt in the city and was great, with the speeches by Anthony's mates, Simon (Jen's Dad) and Anthony being amongst some of the best. Jenny looked wonderful, the bridesmaid were lovely and the guys did pretty good on the appearance front as well. Altogether a terrific day (even if it did seem a long time coming) and Ian and I could not be happier in welcoming Jenny officially into the family (mind you she has been accepted as part of the family for quite some time).
After 4 weeks of excitement and emotion, it was time to get back on the planes for the long haul back. Due to work Ian flew straight through to Spain whilst I took the opportunity to stop over and have another week in Kuala Lumpur as it was my last chance to see everyone for this year. Another great week and then time for a rest back in Spain
Wednesday, August 22, 2007
Week Break in Singapore 27 July
The Hilton Hotel on the corner of Scotts and Orchard Roads sells the "best" Margarita - see the picture of Ian with his coke spider and the SIZE of the frozen Margarita I was served. From this corner it is possible to just sit and watch the world of Singapore pass by.
It was the end of sale time in Singapore and I was able to pick up a few shirts for Ian as well as some great designer baby clothes for my niece. At sale time some of these lovely little items are as cheap as Target (KMart style store) bits and pieces back home. I was also able to locate some study books that I was having trouble sourcing in Spain.....so a successful week. As we were staying at the Park Hyatt on Scotts Road, getting around the shopping area is very easy, with walking bridges and underground trains within 50 meters of the hotel. The only disappointment was the spa treatment I had whilst there. Malaysian spas are generally very Asian and very good. The Singapore Spa seemed to cater for the Western type of customer and the massage was rather soft and did not leave me with the same sense of well-being usually achieved from an Asian style Spa. Not to worry - I'll make up for it in KL in October
Sunday, August 12, 2007
Week Break in Kuala Lumpur July 20th
Good friends Monica and David provided accomodation, and Monica and Pilar kept me company on the inevitable shopping trips. Kuala Lumpur must be one of the shopping capitals of the world. It provides a mix of latest top designer fashions, local cultural buys, wonderful asian antiques and curiosities, great food and, of-course China Town. THE shopping place is KLCC. Sitting at the base of the twin towers, this centre includes a couple of department stores as well as the big name designer shops - plus has some great coffee places. The Prince is located one street away from Bukit Bintang - a street which is made up of shopping centres. Lot 10, KL Plaza, Starhill, BB Plaza, and the soon to be opened Pavilion. So the week was spent visiting all the old haunts and catching up with the sales.
It did seem strange to be back in KL with so many of the old faces no longer there. However, the old habit of meeting down in Eccochino Restaraunt continues with David and DJ joining the ladies for dinner. One of the downsides to Malaysia (and many other areas of Asia) is the risk of contracting Dengue Fever through mosquitos. Monica had several stings early in my visit and towards the end of my time with her was feeling unwell. A couple of days after leaving KL, she was hospitalised with Dengue Fever. She has recovered, returned to the Prince and is soon to be on her way to a holiday "down under".
It was a great week, stocked up on goodies, caught up with good friends, checked out the old haunts and will be back in early October to see the guys at the pool bar - Rodzie, Linda, and Tommy
Sunday, June 24, 2007
CADIZ - June 25th 2007
There are several sections of highways in our area of Spain which play host to families of storks during the spring and summer months. For those of you who have been born and bought up in Europe this may seem rather ho hum.......for us Ozzies, storks are something that you read about in nursery rhymes and we find them fascinating.
Their ability to build nests perched on high platforms on the edge of major freeways is great and watching them soar and fly so gracefully can be very time consuming (and also potentially dangerous as there are very few stop points along the road systems in Spain - so you tend to look out for them whilst driving - not so good). Anyhow, the nest we pictured being constructed in March (above)now has 3 members living in it (right).
The old centre of Cadiz is situated at the far end of the island - straight down the main street until it basically hits the far coast. In most places the city is bordered by a sea wall, so the beaches are either coves or run along the ocean side where the new town is located. Being a Sunday (and the start of Summer.....and hot), there seemed to be a local exodus from most buildings to the beach areas.
The walk along the ancient sea wall included a visit to the Castle of Santa Catalina. According to the tourist blurbs the original castle was built between 1598 and 1621. Originally erected to protect the city it was converted to a military prison for those of "higher condition" in 1769. The castle includes a chapel, barracks and warehouses which are used for art displays and exhibitions.
Leaving the coastline and moving through the old centre we were able to find some of the beautiful squares which seem to be typical for the old town centres in Spain. The buildings, churches and cathedrals which tend to border these squares are often impressive and the squares themselves vary from lovely gardens, to paved areas filled with tapas bars and restaurants, to road intersections and parking lots. Cadiz had some beauties. Stopping at one of the little bars and having a typical Spanish lunch under the umbrella is something that should not be missed. The relaxed middle of the day meal where it is expected that family and friends will take their time, gossip, drink and watch the world pass - usually in a little street with vine covered walls, bright umbrellas and plenty of shade is something that the younger western countries have missed out on.........it seems a very civilized way of living.
Cadiz has been able to maintain many of the old formal gardens throughout the old town. Many are small but are to be found every couple of blocks and in the heat of summer, the sound of the fountains, and the shade of the huge old trees provided another relaxing and cooling area to wander through and escape the afternoon sun. Whilst Cadiz does not have the stunning geographical scenery of Rhonda, and its historic castle was not quite as impressive as those in Malaga, it is a lovely city with a street scape which matches those we have seen elsewhere in Spain. Wandering through the narrow streets where stunning doorways allowed us to sometimes peek into houses which opened up to internal courtyards made for a enjoyable day. Cadiz was worth the visit.
Monday, June 11, 2007
Ronda - June 10th 2007
Ronda is about an hour to hour and half drive from Sotogrande, through wonderful hills and magnificent scenery. The drive is windy and sometimes steep but worth taking if you have the time. On a clear day the view from several of the lookouts can take in not only the distant Spanish hills and Gibraltar but can include the distant African mountain ranges. At this time of the year, the hills are covered in red poppies, yellow wildflowers and the various greens from the dirty green of the olive trees to the glossy sheens of orange tree leaves. In places it is truly majestic.
Ronda is a city which combines the heritage of Roman, Muslim and Christian conquests. The architecture is wonderful and in some cases the feats of engineering undertaken so many years ago are awesome.
The city square in the old town was built to combine the main functions of religion, justice and defense. The square is dominated by the Church of our Lady of the Incarnation with the City Hall providing an impressive boundary to the gardens which make up the centre section of the square. We were lucky enough to catch a parade of about 40 young people dressed for their first communion. Accompanied with a brass band, the various parish priests, nuns, parents and the rest of the parish it was an impressive pageant which went from the city square, along the main road and across the spectacular "New Bridge".
The Bridge of Ronda is spectacular. According to the ever reliable guide book it was built between 1751 and 1793 and is 98 mts high and made up of 3 arches. The central arch is 90 mts high. It is worth the walk to view the bridge from all vantage points - not just walk along the main street. We followed the track down to the Arab baths and crossed over the divide by the Bridge of San Miguel. The walk back along the edge, looking back across the river towards the House of the Moorish Kings was awesome. The view of houses perched and hanging off the edge of the almost sheer drop of 70 odd metres was breathtaking and the scene back towards the "New Bridge" was better than any available closer to the main street.
Once back at the main street, we were able to look back along the route we had taken and the landscape opened up to probably the best view of the day. The very deep, very narrow chasm which cut its way through the city, with houses perched on top overlooking the wonderful rural view which stretched away to the mountain ranges in the distance. Far below the river wound its way slowly through the rocks and pools which made up the base of the cutting. Generations of Rondarians had used the plazas and balconies which just seemed to be suspended over the gap for entertaining. We were able to watch one lucky couple have their wedding photos taken from the gardens of the House of the Moorish Kings. I imagine the background of their photos would have been world class.
It was a great day and the town was really worth the trip - highly recommended. Favorite spot for Sharyn was the House of the Moorish Kings. It now looks derelict - but that was actually part of the appeal - and its situation was 2nd to none.