Christmas in Madrid - Part 3 Christmas Day

The main meal of the Christmas season is usually held on Christmas Eve in Spain and as we had determined to "do what the Spaniards do" we had arranged for this meal to be taken at the Ritz Hotel. Therefore we packed up our bags and shifted across the square into the majestic Ritz Hotel for a couple of days. Our room was on the 1st floor - the window to the left of the flags. A lovely room,in a wonderful old hotel which truly had the best service we had so far encountered in our many hotel visits around the world.

Just to make you all very jealous Christmas Eve Gala Dinner menu was: Goose liver brochette and scampi wrapped with bacon and Boletus Edulis for appetizers; Toasted almond cream with marinated salmon for soup; Wild mushroom raviolis with its emulsion and Black Truffle from Soria; Grouper fillet with potato crust and basil puree; Traditional Ritz stuffed turkey; Apricot and yogurt gelatin with a sweet wine sauce, nuts and raspberries for desert; finally followed by Coffee and Traditional Christmas Delights. This was accompanied by Cattier Antique Champagne, Electio 05 (Xarel -lo) - D.O. Penedes, Dominio de Atauta 04 (Tinta del Pais) - D.O. Ribera del Duero, Quinta do Portal Vintage 00. Altogether a magnificent meal and one which we will remember for some time to come.
After such a meal, there was a need to exercise the following day - so we headed off to the Parque Del Buen Retiro. We had thought we would be the only people wandering around, but it seemed that many of the Spanish residents of Madrid also planned to spend some time on Christmas day looking around these lovely gardens. Brass bands played, the modern version of Punch and Judy were set up in several strategic places around the wide promenades, families followed children playing on new toys, and we just wandered around taking it all in.

The Crystal Palace with its reflective lake, hanging trees, fountain and wild ducks was well worth finding. As was the centre lake with its very impressive monument. As it is winter here, the trees were bare and have a beauty that is almost eerie - particularly when the day was so bright and crisp.

By mid afternoon we had walked off most of the morning's breakfast and some of last nights meal and decided it was time to head back to the hotel for hot coffee. The hotel had left a delightful surprise in our room of Christmas chocolate log, various other Christmas sweets and a bottle of Spanish sherry - so much for the coffee. That evening there was a very talented singing quartet who performed for a couple of hours in the Ritz Bar, which really topped the day off perfectly.

Whilst Christmas overseas, away from family will never seem to be a "real Christmas", Madrid certainly provided us with some memorable experiences and wonderful sights. The Ritz and the Western Palace Hotels were both great and the Christmas season lights and fireworks dazzling. A great way to spend the festive season if you cannot get home

Christmas in Madrid - Part 2 Day Trip to Toledo

A trip to Madrid, we had been told, should include a day trip to Toledo. So we arranged for a tour company to pick us up and take us about 1 hour out of Madrid and show us around this city. Historically, Toledo was the first capital city of Spain from the invasion of the Goths in the 6th century - up until 1560. With various groups conquering Spain during this period, the architecture of the city displays influences ranging from medieval, moorish, arabian, and gothic. It is a little like stepping back into a time-warp.

The city also boasts of a multi-cultural / multi-religious population made of the Christian majority with Jewish and Islamic members which has also influenced the buildings of the region.

The Cathedral was magnificent with its beautiful tower providing a wonderful balance to the main square which included the Bishop's residence. From this initial stopping point the tour took us through lovely old streets which have retained the cultural and historical character - partially through its World Heritage Listing in 1986 - but also because of the obvious pride its residents have for the place. Whilst it must be maddening for the locals to have bus loads of tourists wondering all over the roads....blocking traffic....and getting in the way, local drivers were extremely patient and accomodating.

The monastery was another wonderful gothic building, with an amazing internal cloister.

The day of our tour was extermely foggy. We had been told that the views from the old walled city were fantastic - unfortunately we did not see them. Therefore we missed seeing the famous bridges and and the views from the various outlooks on the old city walls.

We were able to enter into the old Jewish synagogues, with its lovely ceiling and its surprising christian altar. The most impressive interior was found in the City's church.

Carved stonework, a fabulous altar, and really impressive windows meant that this stop was one of the highlights of the tour.

The tour did come with the inevitable stop at the local jewlery stop and souvenir rest stop - but I suppose these are to be expected on the typical bus tour.
If we were making the trip again, we would hire a car and spend the day looking around on our own. The design of the city is such that it is almost impossible to get lost and if it is entered on one side - it is possible to walk through the historical area and exit the opposite side through the very imposing city gates.

Christmas in Madrid - Part 1

With only a few days of annual leave left after our long trip to Australia in September, we decided to have a European Christmas for 2007. With our regular Australian Christmas being warm to hot we are used to Christmas holidays soaking up the sun at the beach, picnics and bbqs with a seafood and salad Christmas lunch - so this year promised to be very different.
Taking the train from Malaga to Madrid allowed us to see a little of the country side during the three hour trip. We had booked into the Western Palace hotel for the first few days and the Ritz for Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. Both hotels were ideally placed - close to museums, major city squares, parks and transport.

The night we arrived we headed to a little restaurant "Botin" founded in 1725 and claiming to be the oldest in Europe.

Situated just off Plaza Mayor, it did not look much from the outside - however inside was great.....downstairs to a low roof cavern where the food and the service was memorable. Plus it is just one of those places you have to go to - just to say you have been.
The walk back to the hotel was through lovely little dark allyways and local squares which were lit up for Christmas with lots of families and couples around looking at the lights.

The next day was where we tried to take in some culture (and for those that know us well - we do occasionally attempt this - not always successfully - but we try). The Prada art museum beckoned and Ian went over and purchased tickets at 9am. We had been told that there would be a long wait......he was not sure if he just lucked out or if being early was the answer - but he was the only one there and had his tickets immediately - so we spent the day browsing the various sections of the museum, including a special exhibition dedicated to Velazquez. Neither of us know much about the art world but we do enjoy spending time at exhibitions and trying to get a handle on what the artist was attempting to portray.

I think both of us find the 16th to the 20th century traditional artists easier to understand than some of the modern pieces. However, we have spent some time over the last few years viewing Picasso and some of his contemporaries and are gradually learning a bit about them. Therefore the following afternoon we also trooped off to the Musea Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia - which is focused on Spanish modern artists. Ian was keen to see Picasso's Guernica which was painted in 1937 and included a series of sketches which demonstrated the development of the piece.

The evening was spent looking at the Christmas lights and having dinner at a nice little bistro we found on our walk. Once back in the Hotel, I "veged" whilst Ian went out to view the fireworks which were released over the Palace de Commicationes. Our window looked towards the square so I received a pretty good view of them also.

Madrid is a beautiful city with wonderful buildings, lovely parks and interesting little squares and laneways. The Plaza Mayor is known for its Christmas Markets which are set up each year in December. The square is lovely in its own right - but add the Christmas decorations and stalls and it was a nice way to spend the morning browsing.
The square is surrounded with wonderful cafes and small good shops which specialise in the hams and cheeses from Spain. Being Christmas weekend, they were busy with wives selecting the food for the Christmas Eve meal. The husbands, in the meantime, kept themselves busy either minding the kids at the stalls or stamp swapping, which seemed to occur at every light post in the square.

It was a great way to spend a morning and with the art museums from the day before and in the afternoon, left us very tired and foot sore but glad we had come.